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You can try to unplug and plug back in the USB cable — at powerup it tries to determine the polarity of the LED and occasionally the polarity detection doesn’t work so the logic the LED is reversed. But as I said, it does not affect the functionality of the controller, just that the LED logic is reversed.
Has anyone submitted a support ticket yet? I just tried the android app and can’t reproduce this issue.
Depending on the version of your OpenGarage — earlier batches had an LED indicator light, mainly used during setup to indicate whether the controller is in AP mode or Station mode. Later the indicator light is removed since ESP8266 WiFi module itself has a blue LED.
First of all, I highly recommend you to keep the Sound Alarm (at least 5 seconds) — technically there should be a mandatory 15-second sound alarm for all automated garage door openers — when someone controls the door remotely, it’s potentially dangerous (or at least surprising to the person at the garage) to observe the door suddenly closing itself without any audible warning.
Second, I can’t reproduce the issue you reported — I disabled alarm and use Blynk app and it works just fine. Note that the Blynk button is set to ‘Push’ mode, which means you have to press it for at least half a second before releasing it. If you click it too quickly the controller won’t respond to it. Press it down and then release it should work.
The compilation error may have to do with the ESP8266 core version. PROGMEM is a Arduino keyword that indicates the data is to be stored in flash memory instead of RAM. It has nothing to do with Blynk.
I realized the documentation doesn’t contain any information about MQTT. We are working to add this information. In the meantime, here is a quick tutorial. First, you should install mqtt, say on your Linux computer, by following:
https://www.vultr.com/docs/how-to-install-mosquitto-mqtt-broker-server-on-ubuntu-16-04
you only need to read up to Step 2, because that explains the basics of how MQTT works (including pub and sub).Then, once you have a mqtt server, you should go to OpenGarage Settings -> Integration, and type in the mqtt server IP.
In the OpenGarage firmware, it primarily uses MQTT for sending notifications. For example, when the door opens or closes, the following line:
https://github.com/OpenGarage/OpenGarage-Firmware/blob/master/OpenGarage/main.cpp#L843
sends out a MQTT message with the topic “your_opengarage_name/OUT/NOTIFY”, where your_opengarage_name is the name of your OpenGarage (which you can change in Edit Options). For example, if my OpenGarage has a name RaysOG, you should have a MQTT subscriber that subscribes to the topic RaysOG/OUT/NOTIFY.The firmware also sends the current state of the door to topic “your_opengarage_name/OUT/STATE”. So if you subscribe to that topic, you will get messages about the current state.
This is well documented on Blynk website:
https://github.com/blynkkk/blynk-server#blynk-server
particularly the section about what to change on the firmware side and app side:
https://github.com/blynkkk/blynk-server#app-and-sketch-changes
On the firmware side it’s just one line of change (Blynk.begin). Note that OpenGarage firmware uses Blynk.config function (because the firmware manages the WiFi itself and does not delegate Blynk to manage WiFi, but changing it to use a different server is the same as before).1: if you can compile the firmware yourself, there is a simple way to switch to HTTPS: in main.cpp, change the include file BlynkSimpleEsp8266.h to BlynkSimpleEsp8266_SSL.h that’s it. We did test this internally and found that the response speed can be slow: something when you click on the button in Blynk app it doesn’t response immediately, which we think is not great for user experience, and for that reason still using HTTP.
2. The OpenGarage API already provides open and close features thought HTTP API:
https://github.com/OpenGarage/OpenGarage-Firmware/blob/master/docs/OGAPI1.0.7.pdf
section 3 on the first page.You can modify the firmware and homepage HTML to show temp sensor data on the webpage. You can further add a Blynk widget to show temp data. The firmware is relatively easy to modify — you can add a temp sensor variable by following the example of some existing controller variable, such as door status.
I have not personally tried magnetic sensor myself — but I think the firmware correctly handles the sensing part and the automation and notifications should be working just like when using ultrasonic distance sensor.
The readme page:
https://github.com/OpenGarage/OpenGarage-Firmware
says there are several libraries you need to install, including the MQTT one. Did you install the library?The QR code on OpenSprinkler is the product QR code (it shows the product URL opengarage.io). You are right that the one in the manual is the Blynk QR code.
I will check in the new schematic later today, but the differences between different versions are pretty small, mainly layout changes in order to find the best way to mount the distance sensor.
If GP4 doesn’t work, try GP5 — some of the early ESP modules have swapped GP4 and GP5 (they were labeled wrong on the ESP8266 module), but this was a while back, and I assume yours (since it’s fairly recent) is not affected by this.
First, hardware wise, I believe to use deepsleep you need to connect GPIO16 to the RESET pin, otherwise ESP won’t be able to wake up from deep sleep.
First of all, the buzzer is there for compliance reasons (sound alarm is required for automated garage door controller), and if you build it DIY you don’t necessarily have to use the buzzer.
Second, you should check the buzzer’s spec — is it an active low or active high type? The OpenGarage circuit uses an NPN transistor to switch the buzzer, and it’s active high (which means a high signal turns on the buzzer and low signal turns it off). If your buzzer is the reverse (some buzzer modules are active low type, because they use a PNP transistor), then the logic is reversed, and that explains why it’s buzzing continuously.
As Jeff said, you can use Google -> IFTTT -> Blynk route. This is actually what I use at the moment, so that I can speak to my Google Pixel 2 when I need to open my garage door. Basically, you can go to IFTTT to create an ‘applet’ that connects your Google home with a ‘web request’. The web request is in the form of:
http://blynk-cloud.com/your_blynk_id/update/v1?value=1
where your_blynk_id is the blynk id.The only quirk is that setting virtual pin 1 (v1) to 1 will keep the relay engaged, so I always have to go to the Blynk app afterwards to release the button. Otherwise the relay will keep engaged and won’t allow you to trigger a click. This can be easily fixed by adding something in the firmware, I just haven’t got around time to do that.
@heyhogen: DHT22 has higher accuracy than 11, though price-wise is also quite a bit more expensive. If humidity isn’t necessary, there are plenty of low-cost temperature sensors out there like MCP9700/9701, or even a thermistor — these are analog sensors that ESP can read through its analog A0 pin.
The current OG firmware (1.0.8) is compiled with ESP8266 core 2.3.0. I am not sure Gompka said make sure to select 2.2.0 — the only issue we’ve encountered in the past is that 2.3.0 by default uses QIO mode, which caused problems on some ESP8266 chips. But once we explicitly tell it (in the Makefile) to use DIO mode, it seems to be fine.
Check if you are running firmware 1.0.8, the latest firmware. It has better noise filtering to suppress false positives.
My guess is that this is referring to situations where some parts of the car are sticking out of the garage above the safety/IR sensor. The easiest way to address this is probably to add a second set of safety/IR sensor at some height above ground.
Sorry to hear about that. You can submit a support ticket to get it fixed.
If you prefer fixing it yourself, you don’t really need to connect all 4 pins — assuming OTA firmware update works, the USB really just provides power, so you only need VIN (5V) and GND pins. It’s probably easier to solder wires onto the 1117 voltage regulator than the microUSB connector, since the connector’s pins are so close together. On the 1117 voltage regulator:
https://emmarobinsondit.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/ams117_er.png
solder the 5V wire to pin 3 (input) and GND wire to pin 1. You can cut open a USB cable, locate the 5V and GND wires (generally RED is 5V and BLACK is GND), then solder those to the two pins above. That should do it.
