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1. Yes, the same app can operate multiple OGs. If you use the Blynk app, you can scan the OpenGarage Blynk QR code three times to create three projects, and you can give each a different name so it’s easy to remember. If you use the OpenGarage mobile app, it also supports adding multiple controllers. In either case, you can switch between different controllers within the app.
2. Notification is only supported by the Blynk app — the notification message does include the device name, so as long as each device has a unique name (this can be configured on the controller’s settings page), then you can easily tell which notification is from which controller.
3. I am not sure what type of automatic gate you have, and also how you intend to use OpenGarage with it. You can think of OpenGarage as a WiFi-enabled door button — it can sense the door status, and you can trigger actions remotely. On top of that, you can enable automation so that it auto-closes the door if it senses the door is left open for longer than a specified threshold. If your automatic door already does the closing on its own, then you can just leave OpenGarage automation disabled so they won’t both try to control the door at the same time.
Yes, this is possible. Will be including this in the next firmware.
Thanks for sharing your contributions!
According to this post:
It should be connected between GND and Impulse ports.
Yes, as jagos said: you can keep your existing button — in fact you can install as many buttons as you want and if any of them is pressed, it triggers the garage door action. You can think of OpenGarage as a WiFi-enabled door button.December 9, 2019 at 3:47 pm in reply to: Magnetic sensor in combination with ultrasonic sensor #2073
Yes, some users in the past have requested this feature: i.e. the ability to use both distance sensor and magnetic sensor together. I have added this to the todo list and will consider this for future firmware update.
Well, honestly I have never seen any smart garage door opener that supports wired Ethernet. Running a long Ethernet cable into the garage sounds inconvenient and I’d rather stay with a wireless solution.
After beeping, did you hear a click (the relay clicks)?
The Blynk QR code is here:
which is described in the user manual. This is NOT on the product bag: what’s on the product bag is the QR code for opengarage website, that’s NOT the Blynk QR code.
Either get a active-high relay, or, if you have an active-low relay — every relay has a normally open (NO) pin and normally closed (NC) pin. Just use the NC pin, that will reverse the logic.
The best way is for you to submit a support ticket, we will check your order and see if we can send a replacement.
Just scan the Blynk QR code again, it will create a new project with a new token. So you can have multiple identical projects at the same time (each with its own unique token). You probably do need to pay a dollar or two to get more Blynk energy points as they only give you 2000 for free initially.
Are you based in the US? Postage is just a few dollars within the US.
Hmm… Sounds complicated. I don’t know how to exactly reproduce this since I don’t have kind of router setup you have. I have reservations regarding adding the ping test, because it could introduce other issues such as false positives. I still don’t quite understand why the condition WiFi.status() == WL_CONNECTED fails. How is resetting SSID different from a reboot of the router?
I am having trouble understanding how is it possible that when your router is powered down, the condition (WiFi.status() == WL_CONNECTED) is still true? If this is the case, what if the ping also returns successfully? This doesn’t make sense to me. What firmware version are you on? Note that the auto-reconnect logic was not included in earlier firmwares. I’ve tried two different router, as well as my phone’s WiFi hotspot, as soon as the network is down, WiFi.status() == WL_CONNECTED becomes false. I have not seen a counter example so far.
- This reply was modified 10 months, 2 weeks ago by Ray.
Yes, this feature has been tested. Here is how it’s tested: OG is connected to our WiFi router in station mode, then we unplug the router, wait for a while (we’ve tested gap of both less than a minute, and much longer, like 10 minutes), then the router is powered back, and OG is able to reconnect to the router afterwards, without having to manually reboot it.
Where did you see the condition of “if(WiFi.status() == WL_CONNECTED && WiFi.localIP())” — that is not the condition it’s testing in station mode. The only place I can think of that checks that condition is when the controller is in AP mode itself, which is not the mode you are referring to.
result:1 means the command is successful. You can take a look at the API document to see the result status code:
Yes the firmware already handles re-connection. The specific code is here:
the basic logic is that if it gets disconnected from the router, it waits for 60 seconds and if still disconnected, it will reboot to try to reconnect from the beginning.
# indicates a ‘sharp’ in music notes. From C, the notes are C, C#, D, D#, E, F, F#, G, G#, so if C is 1, then G# is 9. I believe the user manual is correct. Note that there is no E# (E# is F).
You can use your OpenThings / OpenSprinkler login to log into freshworks. Does it not work? You can also use your Google account to log in, or Facebook, Twitter account. Finally you can also email to [email protected]
So I finally sat down to look at what was wrong with the HC-SR04 sensors, and the discovery was quite interesting: it turns out it’s a capacitor on the circuit board that went bad, replacing that capacitor fixed the defective sensors. My suspicion is that this batch of sensors are technically HC-SR04P, rated for 3.3V to 5V (the original HC-SR04 is rated for 5V only). My guess is that the manufacturer assumed anyone who buy these are only using it under 3.3V (otherwise you would have chosen the original HC-SR04, which is the same price). As a result, they may have used subpar capacitors which are not rated for 5V. On OpenGarage the power pin of the distance sensor is still connected to 5V, so that may have resulted in the capacitor failing over time. This is really annoying, but at least we figured out what went wrong. We had several returned OG that had similar symptoms (distance stuck at 3 to 5cm). After replacing that capacitor they all went back to function normally. A small capacitor makes a huge deal…
Sure, adding another field for NTP is pretty straightforward.
I haven’t had time to update the API document. The added option name is ‘dns1’:
the reason it’s called dns1 is that the ESP8266 library can accept 3 DNS servers, so in the firmware we left dns1 as user-configurable, and the other two default DNS server IPs. The format of this parameter is the same as other similar parameters (i.e. dvip and gwip).
In the blog post where I initially announced OpenGarage, I shared a Tinkercard link to the 3D enclosure:
That’s for the first version of OpenGarage. The current version is slightly modified, and we now use laser-cut acrylic enclosure. The laser-cut design is embedded in the EagleCAD files of the PCB, in the ‘Enclosure’ layer.